Rose Mary
5/5
Fellow Foodies, Cuisine Comrades, and Savory Society Siblings… WHAT A FEAST! I received several recommendations when I talked about finally snagging a reservation to what is one of the toughest places to get into in Chicago. Everything from the ambiance, aesthetic, service, to of course, the food, came together seamlessly for what felt both elevated and un-pretentious at the same time. I have to be honest when I say I walked in expecting at least some of this to be the hype, but I will be the first to admit when I stand corrected. Aside from one isolated moment, which is due to a preference in meat and not an issue on the dish’s part, I have no actual notes. the fact it takes nothing short of witchcraft to find a reservation here makes perfect sense. So without further ado…
Cocktails: 5/5 - We ordered the Honey Vespa (this is like riding along the Italian coast, silk scarf billowing in the wind), Banana Daiquiri Milk Punch (Your cool aunt who just came back from St Tropez and won’t shut up about how FAABULOUS a time she had), Zora Spritz (Aperol Spritz’s broody older sister, with a fantastic shade of lipstick), Rose Mary Spritz (summer sunshine encapsulated).
Stracciatella: 5/5 - Just when you thought cheese couldn’t get any better, they delievered the cheese to end it all. The instructions were to “rip [the bread] and dip.” We ripped, we dipped, and then proceeded to pile on the soft, velvety shreds of what is possibly the actual best burrata I’ve ever had. Balanced out with a citrus vinaigrette that prevents this from becoming just another mountain of creamy cheese, you know this is fantastic when the one person at the table who does not enjoy cheese is shoveling it into her mouth by the spoonful (yes, I have a friend who is not a cheese lover, she’s learning though).
Tuna Crudo: 5/5 - You’ve had one crudo you’ve had them all… then you have this one and forget that anyone else thought they could do crudo. This is basically the genetically superior mixed child of a carpaccio and tuna sashimi and your taste buds will thank you with every bite. The shallot-beef fat vinaigrette and veal aioli bring a decidedly savory flavor to offset the tuna’s freshness, and just when you think it’s all starting to sound like mush you are met with crispy capers to give you sharp shards of briny crunch. I would like crispy capers on just about everything moving forward. We are now workshopping crispy capers dirty martinis… stay tuned for how that turns out.
Radiatore ‘Cacio E Pepe’: 5/5 - They say some elite Romans bathed in milk… well I’d bathe in this sauce. Coming in to prove that sometimes the simpler the ingredients list, the more effective the dish turns out. Every other cacio e pepe out there just got knocked down a few notches and should be taking notes. There is something tangy about this dish that brightens the sauce, creating flavor contrast that most other cacio e pepes (and some carbonaras) lack. The pasta is perfectly cooked, the sauce is a glossy, velvety, unctuous blanket that provides a balance of pecorino romano and shards of black pepper to prevent it from tipping over into the “coats your mouth and leaves a film on your tongue” territory.
Gnocchi: 5/5 - Imagine soft, pillowy bites of beautifully cooked gnocchi, enrobed in a beef cheek pasticada, which has clearly been braised for an eternity based on how incredibly soft and flavorful the beef shreds were. This dish is somehow deeply savory while providing a subtle sweetness and tang that creates a truly perfect bite. At no point does this sit heavy on the palette, instead hitting multiple taste receptors for that perfect “MMM” reaction.
Pork Ribs Pampanella: 5/5 - We come to the isolated instance mentioned above. For context, I do not enjoy pork nearly as much as others, but was overruled 3-1 when we ordered. Not one to back down from trying something new, I said “sure… why not?” and got both what I expected and something totally new. On first impression I was tempted to rate this dish a 4/5, due to the fact that pork meat and my tongue don’t usually see eye to eye. HOWEVER, that calabrian sweet and sour sauce and the cabbage and yogurt relish swooped in like Superman, caught my Lois Lane of a tongue and said “hey, try this all in one bite.” While I’m not a convert to pork by any means, even I will agree that this dish is in fact a 5/5.
Branzino: 5/5 - Every other grilled fish can pack up and exit the building. Fantastically crispy skin, tender meat, lemony fennel sauce, a hint of sweetness to balance it all out. This was a taste of summer by the sea in every bite. If you’re into fish, this is it. Light, savory, bright, balanced.
Pistachio Gelato: 5/5 - I will die on the hill that gelato (and ice cream) is a year round treat. If you don’t believe me, try this, you’ll thank me later. It’s basically crushed pistachios turned into a butter, turned into gelato, turned into taste bud heaven. While the texture can be a surprise at first, your tongue actully thanks. Instead of the super luscious texture you may normally associate with gelato, this one is a rustic, almost gritty texture that confuses you for a minute, but thebn allows for it to sit on your tongue just that much longer to really ensure you’re getting pistachio in every single bite. Summer, spring, dead of winter, I’m coming back for this.
Espresso Martini: 5/5 - Just when I thought the Espresso Martini podium had suffered enough shake ups, this came along and told Bavette’s to kindly step down. Officially slotting itself into number 2, this is a slightly more espresso forward than dessert drink. The amount of crema on top lets you know they pulled that espresso on the spot, the smell and flavor really playing into the complex notes of what is clearly very good quality espresso. If, like me, you want an espresso martini that is 2/3 bitter to sweet then this is going to check all the boxes. For those curious about the current top spots in the espresso martini ranking: Quartino, Rose Mary, Le Petit Marcel, Bavette’s, Miru
